To the End of the World - Day 3 - 20 miles

If you camp in the rainforest you're going to get wet. The ranger was right, it began raining in the middle of the night. If nothing else it made me appreciate the stupidly expensive tent I bought for the trip. My tent is built for camping in the arctic circle so it barely flinched at a simple all-night rain shower. I woke at 6am and the rain was still coming down hard. I'm not proud of this but for a while I considered some options that would allow me to answer the call of nature without leaving the safety of the tent. In the end I decided not to cross that line and visited the camp's 'pit toilets'. Like some war veterans choose not to speak of their experiences on the battlefield, I won't speak of what I saw in the pit.

Given the relentless rain I decided to risk using my petrol stove in the tent. It actually worked pretty well and I made a delicious bowl of fruity porridge and a (white) coffee. I took my time in the hope the rain would ease up and sure enough it stopped. I seized the chance to leave the tent and load up the bike. I shaved at least 10 minutes of yesterday's time but took no pleasure in packing away a wet tent.

Immediately after leaving Saltery Bay the road climbs around 500 feet - offering some stunning views of the islands to the west. This new stretch of coast seemed to be growing increasingly remote, cars passed very rarely and I was able to sing loudly as I rode. Over the next few miles the road descended nearly to sea level. It should have been a pretty exhilarating descent but I wasn't really in the mood. I find after a few days living outdoors my mood becomes inextricably linked to the weather. I knew the forecast wasn't good and I wasn't particularly looking forward to another night in the rain. I passed hotels, motels and guesthouses all tempting me like devils at the side of the road.

After about 10 miles I approached a grocery store. Having learned my lesson from yesterday I stopped to grab supplies not knowing when my next opportunity would be. My spirits were lifted by the rapid intake of sugar and as I hit the road again I started to push on hard, enjoying the ride. Another treat came soon after as I saw a large bike shop - the first I've seen since Vancouver. This was an opportunity to get the kick-stand I've realised I badly need. The loaded bike is unmanageably heavy, making normally simple tasks like fixing a thrown chain near-impossible without completely unloading the bike. They didn't have one but it gave me a chance to get a weather forecast from a couple of fellow cyclists. The forecast for tomorrow is for less rain than today which has to be a good thing.

At midday I was around 4 miles from Powell River where I would be getting the ferry to Vancouver Island The rain began and within minutes I was hardly able to see the road beneath the water. It was so wet that even my normally impermeable shoe-coats began letting in the rain. As I rode into the relatively large town of Powell River I noticed a ferry leaving the port. I thought nothing of it. I assumed the ferry to Vancouver Island ran fairly regularly, as was my experience with other British Columbia ferries. I came across another bike shop and stopped to ask if they had a suitably sturdy kick-stand. They didn't but the owner told me the next ferry wasn't until 5pm. By the time I got to the island it would be nearly dark. Without hesitation I asked if the bike shop owner could recommend a cheap motel. I was secretly pleased to have the chance to dry out. Once checked-in I took my first shower in a couple of days and hung my clothes and tent up to dry.

Later I wandered into town to get some lunch. Powell River is a strange mix of tourist shops, second-hand book shops and needle exchanges. It feels like a town at the end of the world. Looking at a map that's pretty much what it is. Back at the motel I spent the afternoon planning my next week on Vancouver Island. I can't really make up my mind so I think I'll just wing it. It feels strange to have stopped. I already feel like I've been on the road for weeks. I have the option of getting the 8am or midday ferry tomorrow. The comfort of my motel room has made me lazy so it seems unlikely I'll make the early ferry. Mexico can wait.