Go West - Day 6 - 40 miles

I woke early and walked down to the beach to watch the sunrise. I made breakfast and packed my things. Each day I'm becoming quicker at getting the bike ready. I said goodbye to Ram and Tiffany and was waved off by the eldest of the small children. Today I was headed west to Port Alberni in the centre of the island. From there I would stay the night then catch the Lady Rose, a working cargo ship that sails through a wide inlet to Ucluelet on the west coast. I knew today's ride would be challenging as it would involve my first mountain crossing.

As soon as I started heading inland on the Alberni Highway the road became steeper than anything I've experienced in the last few days. The road was also the busiest I've ridden in Canada but the shoulder was wide. Further inland – away from the touristy coast - you get a taste of real life on the island with a distinctly more red-neck feel to things. I passed a rodeo ground and saw people wearing Stetsons.

After an hour or so I pulled off the main highway to take a look at Little Qualicum Falls. I walked slightly awkwardly in my cycling shoes along the short hiking trail that led to the falls. The waterfalls were fairly small but the views didn't disappoint. The fast flowing river had carved its way deep into the surrounding forest. In between stretches of white water sat crystal clear pools several metres deep. With proper shoes and nothing else to do I would have liked to stay longer but before long I was back on the bike.

The road continued, following a deep valley between high mountains. I passed Cathedral Grove Park, a rainforest where some of the trees are 800 years old. It was beautiful but I had to keep my eyes forward as the road had narrowed and enormous logging trucks were speeding past. From here the climb I'd been dreading all day began. A 1400 foot slog to Port Alberni Summit. I had to keep reminding myself that in the Tour De France they climb 20-30,000 feet but they don't have carry 4 months worth of luggage with them. I reached the top having only stopped briefly once. The road then descended 1000 feet over around 4 miles. It was difficult to enjoy this reward knowing I'll be heading in the other direction when I return on Saturday.

I reached the outskirts of Port Alberni and stopped at the Tourist Information. An extremely helpful lady called up the Lady Rose for me to book me a space on the boat for tomorrow morning. She also talked me out of staying at my proposed campsite as it had no toilets and was apparently full of homeless people. Instead I ended up at an RV park 4 miles from the city centre. It was unfortunately the best option of a bad bunch. I have more in common I suppose with the homeless than those RV owners. The only thing really differentiating me from those homeless campers is a bike. I pitched my tent in what is essentially a car park. If nothing else it made me appreciate even more the amazing camping on offer in the provincial parks I have stayed at so far. My opinion of the place improved slightly after a visit to the showers. Standing under the shower head I had to widen my stance a little so as not to be knocked over by the force of the water. You could have used this thing for crowd control at a riot.

It was only 2pm so I though it would be nice take a trip into the city and do a bit of sight-seeing. I left my bags in the tent and jumped on the bike. Riding unladen again I felt like I'd just stepped out of an 18-wheel truck into a Porsche. Port Alberni was a disappointment. Not the pretty harbour town I'd imagined but a slightly deprived place with signs of high unemployment and drug problems. On my journey back to the campsite it occurred to me that Port Alberni was probably like many English out-of-season seaside towns. Once the summer crowds have gone the reality slips back in - leaving only empty gift shops and bored young people.

As I settled in for an early night the rain began in force. This, I remembered, is why people live in houses.