Returning to the Coast - Day 34 – 42 miles

Today I would need plenty of energy to climb to 2,000 feet so I started the day with 2 breakfasts. My second was at the store just outside the state park with Kate, Brian and Beth. I had a Mookie. It's a delicious blending of a muffin and a cookie. We sat and slowly enjoyed our second breakfasts in the morning sun. The hippies from the campground sat next to us and made us laugh with their strange ways. We signed their petition against widening the highway which would potentially kill some redwoods. I was sort of in 2 minds about where I stood on the issue. On the one hand I loved the redwoods but on the other the highway was dangerously narrow to cycle along. Given the choice between a dead cyclist and a dead tree I would have to chose the latter.

We began the 1,000 foot climb to the 2,000 foot summit, we were starting the day half way up the mountain. I appreciate it may be difficult to visualise a 1,000 foot climb so I will try to explain what it's like. First, imagine cycling up a hill. Now imagine cycling up that hill without stopping for an hour. Then imagine cycling the whole way with a 10 year old child strapped to your bike.

It was a beautiful day and the winding mountain road provided a very gentle climb to the top. From the summit the descent lasted for 10 miles. The road was narrow and very winding, it took a fair bit of concentration to make it to the bottom in one piece.

Once at the bottom Beth informed me that the worst was yet to come, a hill much steeper than the one I'd just conquered. I was in a fighting mood so I powered my way to the top. It was tough but enjoyable to be able to make it to the top without having to stop. As I descended I caught my first glimpse of the ocean for quite a few days. It was amazing to see the transformation in landscapes within the course of one day. Emerging from the shade of the forest to the rugged coast.

After 10 miles of stunning coastal scenery we stopped in Westport for lunch. We ate on the patio and played fetch with the grocery store dog. The town was so quiet the owner seemed perfectly happy for her dog to play fetch on the road. The grocery store sold very little food and I struggled to find anything suitable for lunch or dinner. The store had only 1 loaf of bread but had 200 plus rubber ducks for sale. I felt as the only grocery store in 40 miles it had a duty to focus a little more on the essentials.

The afternoon was tough. Coastal roads have a tendency to go up and down steeply. By the time I reached McKerrick Beach State Park I was ready to stop. It was nice to be camping by the beach again, it's a little too cold to be camping in the shade of the trees. On my way to the showers I bumped into the hippies. They starting telling me about the 'clothing-optional' bath house they'd been trying to persuade Kate to go to the night before. I found out they'd been telling Beth and Brian about it too. They're obviously trying to get a sauna full of naked cyclists for some reason. It's odd that the enthusiastic naturist is so keen to show off a body that nobody else wants to see.

After my dinner of spaghetti and canned chilli I went to wash up. At the sink I found a family of 6 raccoons raiding the bin. It's funny when you confront a raccoon in the act. They stare at you and in their eyes you can sense their shame at being driven to this way of life.